Oregon State research finds some drinkers like smoke-tainted wines

PORTLAND, Ore. (KOIN) — Although wildfires have hindered Oregon’s wine industry, scientists have learned some drinkers are taking a liking to the smoke-tainted pours.

Oregon State University sent samples made with local pinot noir grapes to consumers in New Zealand, where researchers said the winemakers haven’t been as impacted by wildfires as regions along the U.S. West Coast.

In the Willamette Valley, specifically, one of the most-known examples of smoke affecting wineries occurred around Labor Day in 2020. Multiple companies have sued over the outcome of the wildfires, in some cases alleging they lost millions of dollars in sales in the years since.

But according to OSU’s Elizabeth Tomasino, there is a potential market for the smoke-tainted crops.

“Our findings indicate that there is more forgiveness among consumers for these smokey wines than winemakers think,” Tomasino said in a statement. “It seems winemakers have a lot more options if they want to sell wine made with these grapes.”

The enology professor worked alongside doctoral student Jenna Fryer to assess the study conducted in collaboration with New Zealand’s Massey University. The results were uncovered in scientific journal Food Research International earlier this month.

Of the 197 participants, OSU reported that 110 individuals were partial to smokey wine while the remaining individuals disliked it. Those in favor of the smoke flavor gave the wines an average score of 6.86 out of nine points, while the other group gave an average score of 3.26.

The study also revealed that those against smokey wine were more likely to enjoy it if it were labeled with language such as, “vintage with this unique, lightly smokey wine.”

“This research provides vital information for the wine industry,” Tomasino said. “It demonstrates that with certain wine drinkers, there is a potential market for these smoke-impacted wines.”

The professor and other OSU scientists previously developed a spray-on coating to prevent smoke from damaging grapes for wine. The university’s Smoke, Wine, and Grapes Analytical Chemistry Lab looks further into wildfire impacts.